Luke Frenzel

The Ward Parkway Pavilion, too long dominated by American food, embraces new palettes with the long awaited introduction of Nick the Greek.

Beneath the Ward Parkway Center’s pavilion plaza, the long-awaited and sequestered Nick the Greek brings Demeter, the Greek goddess of agriculture and harvest, to middle America on a vertical rotisserie. 

Since their launch announcement, fans of Kansas City’s ubiquitous Mediterranean cuisine, from Aladin to Jerusalem Cafe, have been eagerly waiting for a bite from the commercial novice.

I enter the iridescent taverna, entranced by the emanating scent of freshly baked, thin bread and am greeted by a jovial gyro slinger who grants me a lamb plate, with fries, pita and a cherry soda. On my way to my seat, I brush past a man who resembles a young Aristotle Onassis, who absently gazes at me while spooning a lemon from his bowl of Avgolemono soup. Briefly distracted, I allow my eyes to continue wandering, soaking in the wood-grain ambiance and modern gloss.

The first bite of my gyro is an eruption of flavor. Seasoned lamb, onion, tomato, a marination of salted yogurt and cucumber, all wrapped in the warmed pita cocoon, a familiar recipe. As my late grandfather used to say, it tastes like more. 

I’m unstruck by a particular uniqueness that Nick the Greek brings, though they impress with their genteel service and fit perfectly into the Ward Parkway Center as a reliable chain with quick service and good food.